vacations are for changing your mind

We didn't go to Ole! Ole! after all. First there was the indoor market. What a feast for the eye and the intended daily menu. There was beautiful aspárrago; I've never seen asparagus in Mexico, or at least some that I would be willing to pay pesos for. Then there was granadas, passion fruit. I am not a particular fan of this fruit, mainly because of the zillions of tiny, sand-like seeds nestled in the viscous pulp that afficionados claim is its essence. To me it tastes like juicyfruit gum. I'd rather have the gum.

After the market we walked up to the intended restaurant but found that it would not be open until 1 PM; it was, at that time, 11:30. We wandered back to the jardin, found a bank ~ we thought it was somewhere else but found where it had moved to ~ and instead decided to lunch at Méson San José, famous for its salads.


My eating-drinking-travel-life partner opted for Sopa de Azteca with nice chunks of chicken and stringy cheese in a rich broth. I opted for a beautiful Cobb Salad with the aforementioned chicken, bacon and other usual ingredients.


All this lovely food is served in a quiet garden setting, off the bustle of Avenida Mésone, in what looks like it might have been a real hacienda. There is a big courtyard surrounded by an arched terrazzo walkway off of which are small rooms, now little shops. In a real hacienda these cell-like rooms would have been occupied by the servants. The family lived in the front and upstairs.

We walked back to the apartment, stopping at a great deli, La Cava, for pork sausage and capollini pasta for dinner. This tiny place is stuffed with all things Italian; sausage, pasta, cheeses, ham, canned goods, olive oils. I asked whether it was Italian or Mexican. The dueño assured me it was Mexican with the heart of Italy. We went back today for some fresh Parmesan cheese.

On our way back to the apartment we passed this show of jacaranda. The photo in no way does them justice. But believe me, they are breathtaking.

This morning we went off to Delores Hidalgo, the home of talavera style pottery. I bought two big ceramic pots for the house; the clay pots simply disintegrate in the salt air. The only thing that lasts is real ceramic. They are stowed away in the car; photos on our return to the beach.

We are expecting friends tomorrow for an overnight treat. They are driving down from Mexico City, about four hours away. We'll do a bit of walking around, have a lovely dinner out, and generally enjoy their company and the treats San Miguel has to offer.

As for Saturday's opera, it's La Sonnambula with the glorious Natalie Dessay in the lead. It's one of those operas where all's well that ends well.